Every year, between October and November, the first wines of the harvest begin to appear on the market. Among these, novello wine holds a special place: not only is it the first to arrive, but it is also the result of a specific technique that makes it a unique olfactory experience.
But what truly makes a wine “novello”? How can it be recognized? And what are the similarities and differences with other “first wines” around the world?
Italian novello wine is not simply a young wine: it is a wine produced at least in part using a winemaking technique called carbonic maceration.
This technique, developed and systematized in France in the 1930s, involves placing whole, uncrushed grape clusters into a tank filled with carbon dioxide (CO₂). In this oxygen-free environment, the enzymes inside the berries trigger intracellular fermentation, which alters the grape's chemical structure without the involvement of yeasts.
After about 7–10 days, the grapes are pressed and the resulting must undergoes normal fermentation. The result is an extremely fruity and floral wine, with very pronounced primary aromas, soft and low in tannins, and ready to drink within a few weeks.
By law, in Italy a wine can be called “Novello” only if:
- it was produced with at least 30% of grapes vinified using carbonic maceration
- it was bottled by December 31 of the same harvest year
- it is released to the market no earlier than October 30
The most famous equivalent of Italian novello wine is undoubtedly Beaujolais Nouveau, produced in the Beaujolais region of France, north of Lyon. The French regulations are much stricter: only the Gamay grape is allowed; carbonic maceration is mandatory (or semi-carbonic, with partial spontaneous fermentation); the official release date is set every year on the third Thursday of November; the wine must be bottled in the production area; and it must be labeled “Beaujolais Nouveau” or “Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau”.
Beaujolais Nouveau has become a global phenomenon, exported to over 100 countries and celebrated with events and tasting evenings. Italy has a more discreet tradition, but it is well rooted especially in Veneto, Tuscany, Trentino, and Abruzzo.
Other examples of “new wines” or “primeurs” can also be found outside France and Italy, though they are less formalized:
- Spain: Vinos Jóvenes – often made using traditional methods, but bottled within a few months of harvest
- Austria: Junker (mainly in Styria) – young, sparkling white or red wines bottled by autumn
- Germany: Federweisser – a partially fermented sweet beverage, unfiltered and consumed within a few weeks
- United States: some producers make “nouveau-style” cuvées for local markets, often inspired by Beaujolais
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The aromatic profile of novello wine is a small olfactory universe that deserves to be explored with care. Carbonic maceration produces unique aromatic compounds, including:
- Isoamyl acetate → ripe banana aroma
- Ethyl cinnamate → hints of strawberry and sweet red fruits
- Phenylethyl acetate → floral notes (rose, violet)
On the nose, novello wine is explosive, immediate, and recognizable: fresh red fruits dominate, along with flowers, and sometimes hints of fermentation or yeast. The body is light, with low tannins, and a pleasant liveliness on the palate.
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The direct and accessible aromaticity of novello wine makes it an excellent educational tool for those who want to train their sense of smell. The Red Wine and Red Wine 2 aroma kits include many of the scent markers found in these wines: Strawberry, Raspberry, Banana, Cherry, Floral and Fermentative Notes.
Practicing with aroma samples and then comparing them in the glass is an effective way to build your olfactory memory and refine your sensory perception.
Novello wine is a celebration of the present, a wine that doesn’t wait. It doesn’t aim for complexity or structure but offers honesty and liveliness.
In the glass, it carries the memory of the summer just ended and the beginning of autumn. For enthusiasts, it’s also an opportunity to reconnect with their sense of smell and renew their sensory attention.