You smell a red wine and, among the fruit and other aromas, recognise something familiar: freshly ground black pepper. The same smell that rises from a dish when you turn the pepper mill.
But how does a spice find its way into the aroma of wine? It is not an added ingredient. Behind this resemblance lies a story that begins with the grape and involves a little-known molecule capable of leaving a distinctive impression: rotundone.
The name rotundone comes neither from wine nor from pepper. It derives from Cyperus rotundus, a plant commonly known as purple nutsedge, in which the compound was first identified in the 1960s. Its role in wine’s peppery aroma was only established much later. Rotundone is also found beyond wine and pepper, in herbs and aromatic plants such as marjoram, oregano, rosemary, basil, thyme and geranium.
A spice in your glass, without adding spices
When we describe a wine as fruity, floral or spicy, we draw on references from everyday experience. Saying “I can smell cherries” does not mean that the wine contains cherries: it means that its aroma reminds us of that fruit.
With black pepper, the connection is particularly interesting. Rotundone is an aromatic compound found both in pepper and in certain grapes and the wines made from them. It is a major contributor to Syrah’s peppery character. The resemblance is more than an association: there is a chemical connection. Wine and pepper can share a component that evokes a similar aromatic impression. Like a recognisable musical note in two different pieces: you find it again, but everything around it changes. In wine, pepper can intertwine with fruit and other nuances, becoming part of a broader composition.
Rotundone is very potent. In a study published in 2008, tasters sensitive to the molecule could detect it in red wine at concentrations of around 16 nanograms per litre. Our noses encounter tiny traces and turn them into impressions: “spicy”, “peppery”, “it reminds me of a pepper mill”.
Within the grape berry, rotundone is concentrated almost exclusively in the skin. During winemaking, contact between the skins and the must allows some of it to be extracted, contributing to the wine’s peppery character.
Its concentration can vary with grape variety, growing environment, vintage conditions and production choices. Reading the grape variety on the label is therefore not enough to tell us how much pepper we will find in the glass. Research on Shiraz has shown how site characteristics and environmental conditions can influence this aromatic component.
From Syrah to Vespolina: where to look for pepper
Syrah, also known as Shiraz, is one of the best-known grape varieties for exploring black pepper aromas. This note can be particularly evident in some wines from cooler growing environments, such as the northern Rhône or certain Australian regions.
High concentrations of rotundone have also been found in wines made from the Italian varieties Vespolina (Piedmont and Lombardy) and Schioppettino (Friuli Venezia Giulia).
And there is a surprise for anyone who associates pepper only with reds: the compound has also been identified in Grüner Veltliner, the white grape variety particularly well known in Austria.
These names are invitations to explore, not promises that apply to every bottle. Two Syrahs can offer different experiences: in one, pepper may be easy to recognise; in another, fruit may take centre stage. You can compare them by noting what you smell before reading the producers’ descriptions. Rather than trying to confirm a particular word at all costs, let the wine suggest it.
Spicy does not always mean black pepper
“Spicy” is a useful but broad term: cinnamon, cloves and pepper all belong in the spice cupboard, yet they evoke different sensory experiences.
In wine, some spicy notes can come from oak ageing. The pepper associated with rotundone, however, can come from the grape itself. Saying “this wine is spicy, so it must have been aged in oak” would be jumping to conclusions.
To make your description more precise when assessing a wine’s aromatic profile, ask yourself: which spice comes to mind? Does it remind you of freshly cracked pepper, or something else? You do not need to find the perfect word immediately. Start with “spicy” and add a detail when you recognise it. The vocabulary of wine tasting is there to help us communicate more clearly, not to complicate an enjoyable experience.
What if you cannot smell the pepper?
Not everyone perceives rotundone in the same way. In sensory studies, around 20–25% of participants could not detect it even at high concentrations. This is known as specific anosmia: an inability to perceive that particular compound, rather than smells in general. It helps explain why two people can describe the same wine differently. One recognises a clear peppery note; the other focuses on different aromas.
Not finding pepper in a single glass does not establish that you are insensitive to rotundone. The note may be subtle or difficult to distinguish within the overall aromatic profile. And real pepper contains many compounds: being able to smell it is not a specific test for this molecule.
The most interesting approach at the table is to leave room for differences: “This is what I can smell. What do you find?”
The challenge: find the pepper with your eyes closed
A little freshly cracked black pepper is a good starting point: smell it with short, gentle sniffs, keeping it a small distance from your nose, and focus on its aroma. Avoid finely ground powder.
But recognising it when you already know what is in front of you is only the first step. Could you identify it among other aromas, without reading the name or seeing what you are smelling?
If you have the TasterPlace Red Wine Aromas collection, ask someone to select three samples, including Black Pepper, and hide the labels. Smell them one at a time, following the instructions in the guide: which one reminds you of the spice? Then check and try again another day.
This is where your aroma set becomes your training ground: you have different references to compare and recognise blind, without having to gather ingredients each time or rely on visual clues.
The sample and the pepper in your cupboard do not need to smell identical. Look for what they have in common and notice the differences. Write down the sensations and memories each one evokes. In wine, too, you will encounter that note within a combination of other aromas.
The next time you smell a Syrah, Vespolina or Schioppettino, let your first impressions emerge. Then ask yourself whether any of the aromas remind you of pepper. If you find it, notice how it combines with the rest. If you do not, keep exploring what is in your glass.
Discover the Red Wine Aromas collection It combines a guide to wine with twelve aroma samples, including Black Pepper, to help you build your aromatic vocabulary and train your nose through blind recognition.
